IT'S OFFICIAL - there's nowhere better for a night out than Newcastle.

The Rough Guide, travel bible of the fashionable backpacker, has placed the city top of its list of the 35 must-do British experiences.

The vibrant quayside is loud and packed with bars and clubs (including the Lodge, owned by Ant and Dec) and there are more discerning cocktail lounges, restaurants and comedy venues to be found if you wander along one of the side streets.

Newcastle on the north bank of the River Tyne and Gateshead on the south are merged by seven impressive bridges into a single "cultural and cosmopolitan" visitor destination and a hotbed of artistic creativity.

I went to the Summer Exhibition at what used to be a biscuit factory and is now the biggest commercial arts space in Europe and visited the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art (a former flour mill).

Next to it on the quay is the Sage Gateshead, an eye-catching glass and steel building, designed by Norman Foster and used for musical performances.

Vying with the bridges for the accolade of most recognisable Newcastle site is the award-winning, 200-ton Antony Gormley sculpture, Angel Of The North, 15 minutes from the city centre. Other nearby destinations include Hadrian's Wall and Alnwick Castle (used in the Harry Potter films).

Wanting to mix the frenetic buzz with the peace and serenity of the greener part of the city, I headed north for a mile-and-a-half to an imposing Georgian hotel once frequented by Rudyard Kipling and Lord Baden-Powell.
Jesmond Dene House overlooks the wooded valley of Jesmond Dene, which is full of waterfalls, and native and exotic trees.

Once a college, a seminary and a school, the building has recently been refitted as a boutique hotel. The interior is contemporary with sleek, clean lines, but avoids the traps of being overly minimalist or going down the chrome-and-cream route.

Bedrooms are individually decorated with subtly different colour schemes, with just one or two walls decorated with a Laura Ashley-esque print wallpaper.

This hotel takes sleep seriously, with big, comfortable beds covered in white Egyptian linen.

There are widescreen televisions but the tranquil views shouldn't be ignored.

Eight of the 40 rooms are in an adjacent modern building but I preferred the character of the rooms in the original house.

Mine had a fireplace, muted colours and deep windows overlooking the Dene.

I particularly liked the bathrooms. Designed with just a hint of Thirties New York, they had tiled floors, frosted glass, big mirrors and either baths or walk-in showers.

The communal areas are characterised by the original oak panelling with much of the artwork on display on loan from university art students.

The chef at Jesmond Dene House is Michelin-starred Terry Laybourne. Unfortunately, he was not on the premises when I was a guest but was ably represented by his head chef, Jose Graziosi, formerly of Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant in Padstow. He is an exuberant Italian with an infectious enthusiasm, creating skilful and beautifully presented food.

I had salad of grilled Craster kippers with pink fir apple potatoes to start (£9. 50) and a main course of roast monkfish with curried lobster sauce (£23. 50).

I was promised the "legendary Geordie friendliness", which the hotel staff delivered in abundance.

They were happy to call taxis for us and to recommend restaurants and attractions.

Newcastle is great for party people but if you like your nightlife mixed with culture, relaxation and good food, Jesmond Dene House is the place to stay.